It had not occurred to me whole potatoes could be grated until I saw Silas do it one night a few weeks ago. I was awed, and I immediately grasped that potatoes, like cheese, are different when bought whole and when bought shredded and frozen. I determined, then and there, that I would make hash browns at home.
I started with butter. I had never used butter for anything but baking or popcorn, and the pleasure of seeing and smelling it melt in a cast iron frying pan took me by surprise. If you too grew up in a home where butter was a frowned-upon decadence, and Saturated Fat and Lying were equal in the canon of sins, do yourself a favor and borrow a tablespoon or two from a neighbor. The delight of melting it on the stove top, pan sizzling, is better than eating gourmet ice cream from the carton.
I picked my potatoes with care, choosing a less starchy variety with a reliable flavor rather than a bland baker that might fry up crispier. A yukon gold potato is not much to look it. Its skin is lighter than your standard russet, a light tan with warm undertones, and the average specimen is medium sized and lumpy. The flesh is the color of white mashed potatoes whipped with margarine. Raw, it tastes and smells like a cross between cauliflower and the after rain scent of fresh earth. There is nothing in its complexion that hints at the glorious, delicate flavor revealed with cooking.
I added the grated potatoes to the butter on medium heat, and I stirred. At the suggestion of The Victory Garden Cookbook, which has lots of useful tips on veggies, but an unfortunate predilection for heavy cream, I added about a teaspoon of apple cider vinegar. I can't explain it, but somehow, the vinegar taste disappeared and simultaneously magnified the flavors of both butter and potatoes.
When the scent of butter frying brought my housemate from the other end of the flat to investigate, and my pan suddenly looked less full, I knew it was time. I scooped out my treat, garnished it sparingly with good old Heinz ketchup, and ate myself a plate full of nirvana. Calorie for calorie, homemade hash browns are a more satisfying indulgence than chocolate.